The All American Laundry
You can drive
the
600 miles
from Philadelphia to Norton today with all ease in ten
to twelve hours.
But in 1927, you did well to make it in five days.
Curly O'Neill
accompanied
France and me on our journey home in the spring of
'27, bouncing over
those
narrow dirt roads in a Model T Ford.
Along the mountain
roads
in our part of the country, any place a culvert went
under the road
there
was a white post alongside the road--sometimes two
posts, if it was a
large
culvert.
"What are those
white
posts for?" France wanted to
know.
I told her that
every
place you saw a white post, someone had been killed.
So every once in a
while
she'd make the sign of the cross and say, "There lies
some poor soul.
May
he rest in peace. "
The innocence of a
country
girl in the city is easily matched by that of a city
girl in the
country.
Nearing home, we
crossed
Big Bull Mountain.
France read a
highway
sign and said, "Hmm, Big Bull Mountain. Hmm. Don't
they have cows
around
here, too?"
-----
France, Curly,
and I arrived
at the Old Home Place in Norton to find that, in the
terminology of
today's
astronauts, all systems were "go".
Most of the other
brothers
(remember, there were nine of us--plus four sisters!)
were already
there,
the others were on their way.
Mammy, Tom, Paul,
and
the smaller ones were already at work excavating for
our reservoir.
Etta and Pete, the
youngest
of the thirteen, were still quite small. Jim was still
just a boy in
overalls,
but a good worker with keen initiative. Soon after we
got the project
organized,
he became our "fireman."
It was really fun to
see
that gang of brothers at work. Every man did more than
his part, and
did
it cheerfully. We were on the job before sunup, and
worked till it was
too dark to see what we were doing .
We had our own water
and
our own coal. The coal came from the "Little Tom"
mine, just a few
hundred
yards from the laundry site, named for brother Tom
because he was the
one
who had found the seam. Curly and Tom took the
responsibility of
keeping
the laundry supplied with coal.
The O'Neills
were
always
(and still are) a rollicking, festive family. We
played as hard as we
worked,
and that was plenty hard. Each one of the boys
inherited our father's
old-fashioned
Irish appreciation of a good drink and a good time.
Brother Tom had a
special
fondness (which later, I'm sad to say, became a
weakness) for bottled
spirits.
I recall that when I visited the Home Place while on
furlough from the
Navy in 1917, Tom had prepared for the occasion by
putting up a 50-gallon barrel of wine.
Tom was just as kid
at
the time, but he knew something about making wine.
Everybody in the
community
made a big fuss over how good his wine was, and he
took great pride in
the knowledge that his product brought so much joy to
so many people.
It occurred to me
one
day that too much of Tom's wine was being wasted on
neighbors, town
winos,
and passers-by. Hell, a stranger couldn't walk down
the road without
somebody
stopping him to offer him some of Tom's wine. I
decided, on my own, to
preserve some of that good wine for a later time.
I found two
five-gallon
jars, filled them with choice stuff, and buried them
in deep holes that
I dug with post- hole diggers in the yard of the Home
Place. I used
corners
of the house and a cherry tree as landmarks, and it
never occurred to
me
that I'd ever have any trouble pinpointing the burial
spots.
Well, that was in
1917.
Ten years later, a small army of relatives and friends
were digging the
dam that was to supply water to the All-American
Laundry. Every
man-jack
in the crew had worked himself into a state of near
exhaustion, digging
for twelve hours or more each day into a stubborn
limestone hillside
with
hand tools, mixing cement by hand and transporting it
by wheelbarrow.
(And my, isn't it wonderful, the way
they
designed both the wheelbarrow and the shovel to fit an
Irishman's
hands?)
But our job was
beginning
to lag. The boys were worked to death. It was obvious
that a
psychological
"lift" was needed. That's when I remembered the buried
wine.
"Boys, " I said,
"I'm
proposing that we have one hell of a victory feast, ,
as soon as we
finish
this damned reservoir ."
And then I told them
about
that ten-year-old wine, and you should have seen their
eyes light up!
If
spirits had begun to dim, that brightened them plenty.
The reservoir was
completed
a few days later, and we had our feast. But the wine
wasn't as easily
found
as I had though it would be. The. cherry tree was
gone, and nobody
could
recall just where it had stood. Fortunately, Mammy had
witnessed the
burial
of one of the jars , and i t was found right where she
said it would be
.
And oh, what good
wine
it was--! Light and clear, aged to a mellow
perfection. It was made to
seem all the better by the fact that those were
Prohibition days ,
when a good drink was hard to come by.
We agreed to leave
the
second jar buried until the laundry itself was
complete, then dig it up
and have another feast. But when that day came, we dug
holes large
enough
to bury an automobile in, all over the yard--without
finding the wine.
Undoubtedly, it is still there.
(There's an
interesting
little postscript to this story: A few months after
the laundry went
into
operation, Mammy decided to put in an underground
stone store-house or
"dairy" alongside her house. I conned my kid brother
Paul into digging
it for her. Paul was a wee bit lazy when he was a kid,
but you'd never
have known it from watching him dig that hole. I told
him about the
buried
wine, and how proud of him everybody would be if he
found it--and how,
since it was officially "lost," he could claim it as
his own and sell
it
for a dollar a gallon.
Well, Paul dug a
hole
right where I showed him, eight feet deep, twelve feet
long, and seven
feet wide--just perfect for Mammy's storehouse!
Surprisingly,
though, he didn't find the wine. He was
just
sure that each shovelful was going to unearth the
magic jar--and I
didn't
have the heart to tell him, even later on, that
the wine was buried at least sixty feet
from
where he was digging.
And that second five
gallons
of wine, I repeat, is still there in the yard of
the Old Home
Place,
in 1972!
-----
Joe
Peters,
a neighbor
who was a carpenter by trade, was an interested
spectator when the
first
water from our big (100 ft. x 40 ft. x 10 ft.)
reservoir was
transferred
to the laundry site, a few hundred yards away.
We first primed the
two-inch
pipeline and then, when the water came with good force
(forty pounds
pressure),
we opened the end valve all the way and let the water
run for a while
to
make sure that all the air was out of the line.
"Now Davey," Joe
Peters
volunteered, "Let me tell you how you can control that
water. Get
yourself
a poplar plug, and whittle it down to a smooth finish,
and tap it into
the end of that pipe; it will save you a whole lot of
water..."
I mention that
incident
not to ridicule Joe Peters, but to give you an idea as
to how much the
average man in rural Wise County knew about plumbing
in 1927.
To illustrate the
point
further: "Indoor" plumbing in the coal camps was
practically unknown. I
would estimate that there were four thousand homes in
the county that
had
"privies" built over a stream. They were always built
high above the
water,
so that floodwaters wouldn't wash them away.
In some of the
camps,
you could look from the main highway down a row
of "company
houses"
and determine, when people went to the privy, whether
they had gone to
do "No. 1" or "No. 2." Even so, the kids had
their "swimming
holes"
in those same creeks. It's a wonder everybody in the
whole damn country
didn't die of typhoid poisoning. A lot of them
did.
The State Board of
Health
took steps to eliminate this type of filth in the
'30's and '40's, and
the situation is somewhat better today. But the coal
camps, of course,
are now practically deserted.
Oh, one more thing.
In
the courthouses in many county seats in Southwestern
Virginia, the
first
indoor toilets were built with an iron bar located
immediately over the
commode, positioned in such a way that it would be
just about
impossible
for a person to get up on the seat with his feet.
Those bars, too, are
now
gone--a sign, perhaps, of progress.
-----
If ever a
business was
well-named, it was the All-American Laundry. It
represented the hopes
and
aspirations and the sweat and blood and tears of a
family of fifteen as
American in its heritage and its thinking as any
you'll ever find. And
the laundry failed.
We launched the
business
in 1927, starting from scratch. The foundation was
laid on bottom land
near Powell's River, three miles west of Norton. We
dug a
reservoir, raised the building, put in
piping
and the heavy machinery, all within a few months.
Due to
my
engineering and laundry experience, I played a
central role in
the
enterprise. I invested everything I owned, including a
bankro1l of
about
$5,000--
a sizable chunk of money in 1927--into
the
business.
For the first few
months
after we opened, everything went according to plan. We
completed
construction
of the building ahead of schedule, with every member
of the
"organization"
working his tail off.
Damp wash laundering
of
clothes was something new to Southwestern Virginia. We
picked up dirty
clothes, washed them, and delivered them damp. The
price was right: one
dollar per bag. This was long before washing
machines became a common home
appliance,
I might add--so you just imagine how popular we became
with the house
wives
of the area. Most home laundering was done with
scalding water,
lye
soap, a washboard, and plenty of sweat and toil.
The All-American
Laundry
showed a profit of $12,000 in its first year. The end
of the rainbow
lay
just ahead. We bought three new trucks, extending our
pick-up and
delivery
service to a fifty-mile radius of Norton.
I hired Rosie
Nickels
and Easter and Maggie Salyers--the best hand ironers I
ever saw
anywhere.
Other girls working for us, in addition to my sisters
and sisters
-in-law,
were Lora Bowles, Helen Absher, Mossie Fletcher , and
Ted Jones. They
were
good, loyal employees, every one of them.
But then things
started
to go bad. First, there was a major drought in the
area that affected
everybody--especially
us, and our water supply. When the reservoir
dried up, we ran four thousand feet of
two-inch
galvanized pipe to the nearest water
source--Carding Machine
Branch
on Stone Mountain, where Gal Shepherd once ran a big
government still.
But we had to lay the pipe on top of the ground, and
right away there
came
a big freeze and the pipe burst in a thousand places.
At about that
same
time, the demand for coal began to subside, and many
of the mines in
our
area began to fold. Many of our customers couldn't
even afford to buy
food
for their tables--so how could they possibly pay
anything to have their
clothes washed? We carried them on the
books
anyway, and continued to extend them credit for weeks
and sometimes
months
after they became unable to pay.
Meanwhile, our own
bills
continued to mount. And we had other problems, too.
Serious problems.
Our
trucks were involved in three serious accidents in
three weeks,
including
one tragic one on Nov. 7, 1928, in which 15-year-old
brother Joe was
killed.
The business was
slipping
under, but we didn't know how to quit. During the
final few months,
with
our creditors hounding us day and night, each of the
married brothers
took
only three dollars per week as his salary; the single
ones took
nothing.
We ate ground hog, turnip greens, poke salad, and soup
beans. Sometimes
we ate less than that.
And then the
All-American
Laundry was no more .
------
For the
O'Neills
of Norton,
the Great Depression began a year earlier than it did
for the nation at
large. All of our families were in desperate shape. We
scattered
geographically,
looking for work. But the ties remained strong.
Half a century
later,
we are still one family.
During the
final
weeks
of the All-American Laundry, I was working a second
job on the side,
hauling
coal. In fact, it was coal-hauling that kept the
laundry alive after it
would have otherwise folded.
After the
laundry
went under, I devoted my full time to the coal
business, and had a good
thing going--for a while. With my kid brother Jim and
Vera's husband,
"Uncle
Jim" Baker, I was buying coal at the mine for $1.50
per ton and selling
it to retail customers for $5.00. One truck could haul
three loads per
day, and we had two trucks going. That may not sound
like such a hell
of
a profit today, but at that time it was.
In fact, it was too
good.
Word leaked out that we were making a "killing"
hauling coal, and first
thing you know every yokel for miles around was
horning in on the
business.
As competition mounted the price dropped, and pretty
soon the two Jims
and I were out of a job. Our trucks weren't really
designed for hauling
coal, and we couldn't compete with those that were.
-----
We still had
the
trucks.
If you can't make
money
hauling coal, by God, haul something else. Haul
anything. Haul logs.
A fellow named
Runyon
contracted Jim and me to haul logs out of Big Black
Mountain. He agreed
to pay us $5 per thousand feet, with $20 per day
minimum. According to
our agreement, we'd receive no pay until Mr. Runyon
got returns from
his
bulk shipments--which figured to be twice a week, once
we got rolling.
We brought no
telling
how many loads out of that mountain. Mr. Runyon
had five railroad
cars put on the siding, ready to load the next day.
But that evening we
received
a phone call, advising that we hold all shipments
until further notice.
That turned out to be forever. The Culyer Lumber
Company mill had
burned
down.
That, as the saying
goes,
was the straw that broke this poor camel's back.
According to
historians,
this country's Great Depression lasted from 1930 thru
1936, reaching
its
greatest depth about 1933.
My own personal
Great
Depression began earlier and probably sank quite a bit
deeper than the
national average. By the fall of 1930 France had taken
our daughter
Bernice,
who was born in 1928, and gone back to Philadelphia. I
put them on the
train with the last of my World War I "bonus money."
John, Curly, and
Jim
went out West seeking work, and I was tempted to join
them. The coal
hauling
business had collapsed, as had coal mining in general.
My trucks were
ruined,
and there was no way to make a living with them even
if they were
running.
There was nothing to do but lay around, catch ground
hogs, pick
berries,
and fish. That may sound like the good life to some
people--but not
this
old boy. Idleness was driving me out of my mind.
And then things
started
looking up.
It all began when
somebody
killed Doc Cox.
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