The Boone Trail
By Emory L. Hamilton
The earliest known
path through
Southwest
Virginia was an ancient buffalo and Indian trace. When
and who the
first
white man to travel over this trace we have no way of
ascertaining at
this
late date.
That hunters had
been on this trace
much earlier
than most historians think can be proven by the
Journal of Dr. Thomas
Walker
when he was commissioned by the Loyal Land Company in
1750 to make an
exploration
of lands which they had been granted. On April 9,
1750, Dr. Walker
makes
this entry in his Journal:
"We traveled
to
a river, which I supposed to be that which the hunters
call Clinche's
River,
from Clinch, a hunter who first found it."
This entry shows beyond doubt that the
trace
and river were known to hunters prior to 1750. Later
in the 1760's when
long hunts became more profitable and more frequent
this ancient trace
became known, far and wide, as the Hunters Trace, and
the very word
"Hunters"
still clings as an identifying name for
certain places such as Hunter's Valley
in
Scott County, Virginia.
This trace, as all roads do, had
several
converging paths leading into it. The first long
hunts were organized
along
the New River and later on Holston River, near
Chilhowie. From these
points
three paths were well known. One lead from the
Holston by way of
Saltville
down through Elk Garden to Castlewood.
The second from Abingdon through Little
Moccasin
Gap to Castlewood. The third ran from Abingdon via
Bristol and down
Reedy
Creek and veered northwest before reaching Long
Island (Kingsport)
across
Pine Mountain through Moccasin Gap, linking up with
the main Hunters
Trace
at Little Lick (Duffield), where it passed over
Kane's Gap onto Wallens
Creek and down the Powell Valley to Cumberland Gap.
This latter path
later
became the main branch of the Great Wilderness Road.
The first two paths which converged at
Castlewood
to form a single trace from that place through
Powell Valley to
Cumberland
Gap ran down the brow of a low hill on the south
side of Clinch River
at
Dungannon, north of the present bridge and was shown
on the first map
of
the area made by Daniel Smith
in 1774 as "Hunter's Ford." The
crossing
later became known as "Osborne's Ford" after Stephen
Osborne settled at
the site. From Hunter's Ford the path led down a
valley on the north
side
of Clinch River between Nuckner's Ridge and Stone
Mountain, and known
to
this day in Scott County as Hunter's Valley. It
crossed Big Stony Creek
at a place once known as Ka, Virginia, then out
Hunter's Valley through
Rye Cove to Sunbright, and across Kane's Gap onto
Wallen's Creek. At
Little
Flat Lick all three traces became one before
entering Kane's Gap and
thence
down Powell Valley to Cumberland Gap.
Daniel Boone was familiar, no doubt,
with
all three traces. Boone's first trip into Southwest
Virginia, was
probably
about 1767 when he camped at Abingdon and named it
Wolf Hills. He came
into the Valley of the Holston a number of times in
1767 and 1768.
Daniel Bryan, Boone's nephew and
namesake,
in 1843, wrote to Dr. Lyman C. Draper, the following
account of Boone's
trip through this section into Holston Valley and on
into Kentucky.
This
trip is certainly that made by Boone in 1769, for it
was John Finley, a
noted long hunter whose acquaintance Boone had made
in Braddock's Army
and who first told Boone of Kentucky, who led him
through
Cumberland Gap in 1769, Boone having
missed
the Gap on two previous searches. Bryan's
description of the route
follows:
"Boone agreed
to
go and took John Stewart, as his companion, John
Finley, James Holden,
James Mooney and William Conley, six in all."
"On the first
day
of May, 1769, started from Boone's on the Head of
Yadkin they took
their
course westwardly crossing the Blue or Big Mountain
to the three forks
of the New River lower down called Kenaway, thence
over Stone Mountain
to a place called the Stares (Stairs), thence over
the Iron Mountain
into
Holston Valley, then across the valley to Moccasin
Gap in the Clinch
Mountain.
I, Daniel Bryan have traveled the same route. They
then continued their
route or course westwardly crossing Waldens Ridge
and Powell Mountain
into
Powells Valley, then down the Valley leaving
Cumberland Mount but a
little
to their right, so on to Cumberland Gap." (Draper
Mss)
Daniel Bryan, here traces Boone's first
trip
over the entire distance of the Wilderness Road.
In 1773, Boone, accompanied by Benjamin
Cutberth
went to Kentucky to hunt and no doubt, to locate a
place for his
intended
settlement. It was on the return from this trip that
Boone met with
Captains
William Russell and David Gass at Castlewood, and
induced them to join
him in an attempted settlement in
Kentucky.
Returning to the Yadkin Valley, Boone
sold
his farm and on September 25, 1773, started with his
party of settlers
to Kentucky. The Bryan party, Boone's relatives,
were to rendevous with
him in Powell Valley and make the most dangerous
part of the journey
together.
Somewhere in the vicinity of Abingdon,
Boone
sent his son, James, with John and Richard
Mendenhall, across country
to
inform Russell and Gass that the party was on their
way and to get
flour,
tools, and cattle for the settlement. Either at
Castlewood, or along
the
way, the little party was joined by Isaac Crabtree
and a boy by the
name
of Drake, son of Joseph Drake who was killed by
Indians at
Boonesboro in 1778. Both of these young
men
lived with their parents on the road leading from
the Holston to the
Salt
Works, (now Saltville). It is the belief of this
writer that this party
traveled from Abingdon to Castlewood, through Little
Moccasin Gap, much
as the road runs today.
Leaving Captain William Russell's place
at
Castlewood, along with his son, Henry Russell and
two Negro servants
belonging
to Russell, the party started forward on a section
of the old Hunters
Path
previously described. They were to join Boone's main
party in Powell
Valley.
They traveled down the south side of Clinch River,
crossing Hunter's
Ford,
through Hunters Valley and across Powell Mountain at
Kane's Gap, onto
the
head of Wallen Creek, when darkness came upon them
and they went into
camp
at the old ford of Wallen's Creek on October 9,
1773. At daybreak on
the
next day, as everyone knows, the small party was set
upon and masscreed
by the Indians, with the exception of Isaac Crabtree
and one of the
Negro
slaves.
Logical reasoning tells us that Boone
did
not travel to Castlewood with his main party, or
else he would have
sent
his son to inform Russell and Gass of his movements.
It is the belief
of
this writer that Boone and his main party used the
third artery
described
as one of the converging paths of the old Hunters
Trace, and this is
also
the consensus of the late R. M. Addington, in his
History of Scott
County,
Virginia, Addington details this route through Scott
County, and I
quote
herewith:
"It is not
possible
with the data at hand, to trace with absolute
certainty, the location
of
the Kentucky Path at every point throughout its
length. Like other
roads,
both then and now, it was subject to such
alterations as suited the
fancy
of convenience of those who traveled over it, and
divergence was, of
course,
always possible between the 'gaps'. Moccasin Gap,
was no doubt, reached
from the Holston settlements by more than one way.
In general, however,
the following description of the Kentucky Path may
be taken as fairly
accurate
in so far as its passage through Scott County is
concerned. It passed
from
Shelby's Fort (now Bristol) down Reedy Creek to the
Blockhouse. Boone's
original place of rendevous, however, did not
usually take him as far
west
as the site of Kingsport. He traveled down Reedy
Creek to the
neighborhood
of Peltier, and then turned north to the
Virginia-Tennessee boundary
line,
thence by the
way of the Blockhouse to the ford just
above
Holston Bridge. From this ford he took a northwest
course, passing over
Little Pine Mountain at a point where its elevation
has been greatly
reduced
by Big Moccasin Creek. He then passed through Big
Moccasin Gap, the
great
eastern gateway of the Kentucky Path. Thence up
Little Moccasin Valley
in the low divide which separates Little Moccasin
from Troublesome
Creek.
At or near the Old Virginia and Southern depot at
Speers Ferry, the
path
turned aside from the narrow valley of Troublesome
Creek, and passed
along
the south side of a limestone hill to the north of
the late J. M.
Horton
residence, until it reached a narrow ravine at
Horton's Chapel. Here it
dropped down the ravine to the ford at Speer's
Ferry. Persons yet alive
remember and point out the depression of the old
Trace where it passed
along the side of the limestone ridge from the old
Virginia and
Southern
depot to Horton's Chapel. (See deeds Michael Darter,
George Graham and
George George.)
"After
crossing
Clinch River at Speers Ferry, the path passed up the
west bank of the
same
to the Ford of Stock Creek." (Present site of
Clinchport). From
Clinchport
it followed the meanders of Big Stock creek up
almost to the Natural
Tunnel.
Here it turned to the left around Tunnel Hill by way
of Horton's
Summit, to the Little Flat Lick (now
Duffield),
near the new schoolhouse at Duffield. It may be
stated in this
connection
that foot travelers and pack horse trains often
passed up the Devil's
Race
Path Branch to the top of Purchase Ridge, and then
descended into the
valley
of the North Fork of Clinch, near the Little
Flat Lick. Little Flat Lick it seems
was
one of the best known places on the Kentucky Path.
Not one of the early
travelers over the Path, who has left an account of
his itinerary, has
failed to mention Little Flat Lick.
"From Little
Flat
Lick, there seems to have been, at least, two ways
of reached Powells
Valley.
One of these, and this was probably the oldest,
passed over Powells
Mountain
at or near Kane's Gap, and descended into Powells
Valley not far from
the
head of Wallen's Creek, where Scott's Fort was
located.
The other, and this was no doubt, the
route
taken by wagons, passed from Little Flat Lick down
the valley to the
North
Fork of Clinch, by way of Pattonsville, over Powell
Mountain to
Stickleyville
very much as the present wagon road runs."
After the massacre
of Boone and
Russell's
sons it was a well established fact that Daniel boone
brought his
family
and his brother, Squire Boone, back to Castlewood and
lived in a cabin
on the farm of Captain David Gass. In 1774 he was in
command of troops
at Moore's and Blackmore's Forts on the Clinch. The
court of Washington
County, Virginia, invested him with the rank of
Lieutenant and then
Captain
of Militia, the only military rank he ever held.
It was from
Castlewood in 1774 that
Daniel
Boone and Michael Stoner were sent to warn land
surveyors in Kentucky
of
a possible war by the Shawnee Indians. This time, from
best evidence
available,
they traveled through Pound Gap in Wise County, which
Boone called
"Sounding
Gap," to the falls of the Ohio and back through
Cumberland Gap to
Castlewood.
In the early
spring of 1775, Daniel
Boone
and a party of about thirty men blazed a trail from
the Holston into
Kentucky.
This road was no doubt the one described by Addington,
and it was only
a trail, suitable for pack horses and foot travelers,
and not for
wagons,
except from the Holston to Martin's Station in Lee
County (site of
Jonesville).
It was over this route that Boone set out from
Castlewood in the spring
of 1775 to found the permanent settlement of
Boonesboro.
Historical
Sketches of Southwest
Virginia,
Published by the Historical Society of Southwest
Virginia, publication
12 - 1978, pages 1 to 4.
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